First, when you have a new racket for stringing, you need to check the details of the old/broken strings in the racket. You can make a photo or check the tubing-holes of the most important strings. Especially the strings at the tubing-holes at (clock hours) 2, 4, 8 and 10 are important. Check which ones are used for length and width strings.
Most stringing machines have 2 inside holders and 4 outside holder for clamping the racket. Always start with the inside holders and fix this first. In the old days with metal rackets, you see that the length of the racket blade will be a bit deformed when just fix it, because the first force is on the length of the blade. Even though the last 20 years this is not a problem anymore, you can pull out the inside holders a little bit (less than 0.5 cm). After the inside holders, the outside holder should be fixed to the blade, not tight but just that it touches the blade. See video for more details.
First, set the preferred length kg's on the stringing machine and set the preferred features for stringing (pre-stretch). Always string the length from the middle to the side, to overcome deforming the blade. This could be done one at left, right, left, etc. or one whole side and then the other side. Count the number of needed strings at one side (n) and measure this number by counting "n" middle length strings + a little extra. Then fix the middle string in a clamp. String from the middle to the side. The last string will be knotted and loose some kg's so it needs some extra kg's, your can do this manually or via a knot button on the machine. After the knot on 1 side has been made, the rest part of the length could be strung. The last length string could be knotted or you can start with the first width string.
The width strings need about 1-2 kg extra, so first change the kg's on your machine. If you knotted the length strings, you need to knot the 1st width string and start with the first width string. If you go on straight from length to width, you can start with the 1st width string. The width strings have friction from the frame and the length strings, this friction is too much to string more than 1 each, so just one by one, don't try to do this faster. When braiding, do always the same so you always have the same pattern and you more easily see when you braided something wrong. In the nowadays frames, there is (almost) always a separate free hole for every width string. When you reached the last string, again set some extra kg's and knot the string.
When you strung all the strings and knotted all, you could cut the rest strings of the knot with a nipper. But realize when you cut the strings, you can't change anymore when something gone wrong with braiding. So better is to first uninstall the racket from the machine and then check if you didn't do anything wrong with braiding. Then, cut the end strings of the knots with the nipper.
Knotting is not difficult but you need to get experienced in it. For the string, that should be knotted, about 2kg extra is necessary because it looses kg's after knotting. When the string has been tightened, the clamp should be fixed as close to the end of the string. Then the string, that goes through the hole, should go through the hole for the knot to the inside, this is a bigger hole with already a string through the hole. It will be tighten from the inside by hand or by a plier. While tightening this last part, the awl will be fixed in the hole of the string so that it holds the string and don't fall out. Then the knot could be made: turn the knotting string around the other string, with eventually an extra turn (see video).
-> When using 200m rolls strings, it's good to create a fast system for measuring 11.5m. When you only string your own racket, you could count very secure maybe a little less than 11.5m.
-> While tightening, some linear stringing machines don't warn, when they finish the end, you then think it has reached the right kg's but it isn't, you should string another time. The S213 warns for this.